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Iran is one of the world’s great civilizations.
It is home to some spectacular historic cities and remains ,
and glorious mountains and landscapes. Best of all , the
Iranians are extremely hospitable and will always make you
feel welcome. A growing number of Iranians speak English
(particularly the younger ones) so even without the language
it is possible to get by.
1. The Country
Iran has an area of 1 ,648 ,195 square kilometers and
is the 17th largest country in the world.
The
population is 60 million (1996 census). The population
growth rate , which was 3.9% per annum during 1976-86 , fell
to 1.5% in the years 1991-6. 61% of the population is
urban. Life expectancy is 67 for men and 70 for
women.
The state religion is Islam and 99.5% of the people are
Muslims. Shia Muslims represent 91% of the population and
Sunni Muslims 8%. There are small numbers of
Christians , Jews and Zoroastrians.
The official language
is Farsi (Persian).
Modern guidebooks in English
include the Lonely Planet and Bradt.
2. The Climate
Iran has a dry climate with low rainfall. Winter
(December to February) can be very cold in most parts of the
country , while in summer (June – August) temperatures of 40
degrees Celsius are not uncommon. Spring (March – May)
and autumn (September – November) are ideal times to tour
Iran.
In and around Tehran the weather can vary
considerably. South of Tehran is hot , dry and stuffy in
summer , but a short trip to the foothills of Mount Damavand
(at 18 ,255 feet the highest mountain between the Himalayas
and the Atlantic) brings cool relief. Winters in the
capital can be very chilly , extremely so at night (as low as
–15 degrees Celsius) , although any snow usually disappear by
early March. Showers are frequent between November and
mid-May , but rare in summer – the annual rainfall is about
240 mm.
3. Visa
It is wise for any individual traveler to apply 2-3
months ahead to the Embassy of the Islamic Republic of Iran
for your visa. Full details , including an application
form , are on here at
www.IranTravelingCenter.com/visa_iran.htm
It
is quicker to get a tourist visa through a travel agency such
as ours. any way if you are on a very tight budget the
travel agent would be the simplest option.
For those coming at the invitation of an Iranian
organization a faxed letter of invitation sent through the
Ministry of Foreign Affairs to the Iranian Embassy in place of
stay is required. For such official visitors the time
needed to secure a visa is usually less , though it is always
sensible to start the process early.
4. Travel to Iran
There are many direct and indirect flights to
Iran by Iran Air and other airlines. for more
information have a look our page at Iran
Iran Airlines Timetable
for example:
If you find a good travel agent (or you can go
direct to the airline) the price of a return economy ticket
Tehran-London-Tehran is between £470 and £570. Cheaper flights
can be found but involve a stop-over.
5. Arrival and Departure
On arrival , if you are not being met , it is best to
go to the airport taxi booth to get a taxi. The cost
should be around 30 ,000 – 40 ,000 rials.
On departure it is wise to be at the airport at
least 2 hours before your flight. You are allowed to
take out with you duty-free a Persian carpet of up to 12
square meters (or , say , 2 carpets of 6 square meters).
The export of antique carpets is forbidden.
6. Local Laws and Customs
You
should take particular care not to offend Islamic modes of
dress and behavior , especially with regard to sexual
relations , alcohol and drugs. It is always better to
err on the side of caution. Behavior that might be
regarded as innocuous elsewhere can lead to serious trouble in
Iran.
It is courteous to be particularly careful not to
give offence during the fasting month of Ramazan and the
mourning month of Moharram (for dates see the section on
Holidays).
If
you are invited to someone's house for a meal it is normal to
take a gift (usually flowers).
Iranians are
punctilious over such courtesies.
It is not customary for men and women to shake
hands.
It is not polite to blow your nose in
company.
7. Money and Prices
The official currency is the rials and these are what
are marked on the banknotes. However , most Iranians speak
about prices in tomans (one toman = ten rials). This can
be confusing , so you need to try and get an idea of what the
money is worth.
The current exchange rate is approximately 8000 rials
to the 1 us$. There is little difference between the
official exchange rate and the black market
rate.
The largest regular banknote in circulation is 10 ,000
rials , worth approximately one 1 ,25 us$ although it buys a
lot more than in the USA.
Dual pricing exists and foreigners sometimes have to
pay in foreign currency for international flights and 4 or 5
star hotels. The price a foreigner pays for hotel
accommodation and entrance to historical sites and museums is
5 – 10 times what an Iranian would pay (the excellent Museum
of Contemporary Art in Tehran is a shining exception and
charges both Iranians and foreigners 2 ,000 rials).
Credit
cards are accepted in international hotels and in some antique
shops and shops selling carpets , though you may have to pay
an extra percentage. (******but unfortunately lately the US
embargo on trade with Iran extent has covered the sole common
acceptable credit card (MASTER CARD) too.
Travelers
cheques are not generally accepted , though they can be
changed at official exchange offices – at a slightly lower
rate than cash. but it is not recommended to be brought
with.
You
should bring sufficient hard currency. US dollars are
best but pound sterling is acceptable.
You should declare
all foreign currency brought into the country on the customs
declaration form provided. Failure to do so may result
in undeclared foreign currency being confiscated on
departure.
On departure any remaining Iranian currency can be
changed for US$ at the airport.
8. Health
At the time of writing there are no compulsory
vaccinations for entry into Iran.
Pharmacies in Iran stock many European patented
drugs , though if you are currently taking a particular
medicine it is only sensible to bring the necessary supplies
with you.
Iran is not an unhealthy country. You can drink
the tap water in most towns , and stomach upsets , though they
occur , are not common. Fruit and vegetables should be
washed before eating.
The sun can be fiercely hot. Beware both of
dehydration and sunburn.
Pollution is a problem in Tehran.
9.
Food and Drink
At its best Iranian cuisine is very good indeed , with
its emphasis on the freshest ingredients , especially
vegetables and fruit. The Iranian diet is heavily based
on rice , bread , fresh vegetables , herbs , fruit – and
meat. Iranian bread is one of the highlights , and is
always fresh; it can be bought in a bakery for between 500 and
1000 rials. Iranian long-grained rice , grown in the
Caspian region , is superb.
The commonest main dish in Iran is kebab; this is
served in most eating-houses. It is good , either beef
or chicken , but it is possible to have too many. When
served with rice it is called Chelo Kebab.
Dishes that are well worth trying are:
Fesenjan:
a stew of duck , chicken or beef made with ground walnuts and
pomegranate juice
Ghorme Sabze:
a stew with lamb or veal with spinach and other herbs , beans
and
dried lemons.
Abgoosht:
a thick "soup" with lamb , lentils and potatoes served in a
special container. The soup is poured out into a bowl
and the meat and vegetables are pounded. Usually eaten
with bread as a main course.
Baghali
Pulo:
rice mixed with broad beans and dill with either veal , lamb ,
chicken or fish.
Tea , drunk without milk , could be said to be the
national drink. Doogh (a yoghurt drink usually served
with meals) makes a pleasant change from other soft drinks ,
while non-alcoholic beer is usually available. Alcohol
is strictly forbidden
10. Restaurants
The best Iranian food is usually found in Iranian
homes. However there is a large number of restaurants
serving good Iranian food. Where there is music , you
may expect to pay of the order of 60-70 ,000 rials per person
for dinner. Without music the price is more likely to be
30 ,000-40 ,000 rials. A sample of recommended
restaurants is given in below.
Pizzas – often of good quality – and hamburgers are
widely available.
There are a number of restaurants serving western food
, none of them of particular quality. There is a good ,
but expensive (by Tehran prices) Japanese restaurant – tel 877
3735; the Monsoon restaurant provides some Chinese , Malaysian
, Thai and Japanese food – tel 879 1989.
11. Hotels
Generally speaking , Iran has a reasonable range of
accommodation. The four and five star hotels generally
do not stand up to scrutiny by international standards , but
the more modest middle of the range hotels offer good value
for money. There is a wide choice of cheap
accommodation.
There are no set rules about whether breakfast is
included in the room tariff.
Apartment hotels are worth considering if you are
staying any length of time.
Lodging for academics is available at the British
Institute of Persian Studies (BIPS) , but should be booked
through the London office. For more information contact
BIPS , the British Academy , 10 Carlton House Terrace , London
SW1Y 5AH.
Hotels
A selection of hotels in Tehran is given below. Prices
, which are quoted at the rates for foreigners , are inclusive
of tax.
1. Esteghlal Hotel
Modarres Highway
Tel: 204 0031-9
Single bed with breakfast: $139 and $166
2. Azadi Grand Hotel
Chamran Highway
Tel: 207 3021-9
Single bed with breakfast: $139
3. Laleh Hotel
Dr. Fatemi Avenue next to Water Organization
Tel: 896 5021
Single bed with breakfast: $122
4. Amir Tehran Hotel
No. 325 , between Iranshahr Street and Forsat Street ,
Taleghani Avenue.
Tel: 830 4066-9
Single bed with breakfast: $50
5. Homa Hotel
Bijan Street , Vali-e-Asr Avenue
Tel: 877 3021-9
Single bed with breakfast: $146
6. Canary Hotel
No. 92 , Somaye Avenue
Tel: 882
5616-7
Single bed with breakfast: $38
7. Simorgh Hotel
No 1096 , Vali-e-Asr Avenue (next to Saei Park)
Tel:
871 9911
Single bed with breakfast: $44
8. Hoveizeh Hotel
Taleghani Street , Ostad Nejatollahi Cross
Roads
Tel: 880 4350-5
Single bed with breakfast: $56
Hotel
Apartments
1. Arian Hotel Apartment
No 24 , Jafarabad Street , Tajrish Square
Tel: 257 0414-5
Double bed suite with breakfast: $
123
2. Tehran Hotel Apartment
Hafez Street. , before College Cross Roads
Tel: 880 4181-2
Single bed suite with breakfast: $ 70
Double bed suite with breakfast: $110
12. Getting Around in
Iran
Internal air travel is efficient and cheap; a return
flight to Shiraz costs 460000 rials.
Hiring a taxi for the day is a good way of getting
around a provincial city – the price should be something of
the order of 20000 rials per hour.
Travel by bus between cities is very cheap;
Tehran to Isfahan is 20 ,000-30 ,000 rials. A taxi hired
to take you from Tehran to Isfahan should cost between 200
,000 and 300 ,000 rials.
It is possible to hire a four-wheel drive vehicle
, with driver , from a travel agency; rates must be
negotiated.
13. Getting
Around in Tehran
In
Tehran drivers have their own view as to which traffic rules
they would like to obey. Look both ways , several times
, before crossing the road.
In Tehran there are two underground lines , but
the best way for practically all journeys is by taxi.
Every area in Tehran has an “Agence” – taxi company – which
you telephone; they will then send a taxi to pick you up and
take you to your destination. It is easier if a Persian
speaker books the taxi for you. In addition to the local
“Agencies” there is the city-wide Tehran Taxis (tel:
133)
The maximum price for a journey within Tehran is
20 ,000 rials (taxis booked through expensive hotels cost more
, and journeys to the airport perhaps 40 ,000 rials). If
you want to hire the taxi by the hour you can do so at the
price of 18 ,000 rials per hour; for an air-conditioned , more
comfortable car the price would be of the order of 20 ,000 –
30 ,000 rials per hour.
Alternatively you can stand in the street and
shout your destination to passing taxis. Some of these
taxis work on fixed routes and you will share the taxi.
Others rove around. You can share such a taxi or ask for
“Darbast” which means that the taxi is yours alone.
It is not wise to get in an unmarked taxi.
It is not normal to tip.
It may sound difficult , but nearly always
someone will be kind and help you on your way.
Non-Farsi speakers should have their destination
written out in Farsi so as to show to the taxi driver. A
telephone number for your destination is also useful to carry
with you.
14. Recreation
Iran
is full of an amazing array of historical sites , and of
spectacular scenery. Sightseeing is truly
rewarding
.In Tehran there is a wide range of good museums
(though captioning is poor). It is hard to choose but
strongly recommended would be the National Museum of Iran ,
also known as the Archaeological Museum of Iran (next door to
which is the Islamic Arts Museum) , the Carpet Museum and the
National Jewels Museum.
Shopping is exhausting but interesting. The
bazaar in south Tehran is worth visiting. Carpets - the
range and choice is extraordinary - are an obvious buy ,
though it will save you money if you can go with an Iranian
friend.
A trip to Darband in the north of Tehran ,
nestling at the foot of Mount Tochal , with a pleasant trail
lined with cafes and kebabis and what is said to be the
longest telecabin in the world , makes a pleasant
excursion.
A day's excursion into the Alborz Mountains -
hiring a taxi (costing around 150 - 200 ,000 rials for the
day) and then walking is recommended.
There is little in the way of organized
nightlife. Iranian classical and traditional music is
performed in centers such as Rudaki Hall.
15. Holidays
There are many. Official holidays to the end of
2002 are:
March 21 -
24
Nowrouz
March
25
Ashoora
April
1
Islamic Republic Day
May 11
Death of Prophet Mohammad
May
13
Martyrdom of Imam Reza
May
30
Birth of Prophet Mohammad
June
4
Death of Imam Khomeini
June
5
15th of Khordad Uprising
August
12
Martyrdom of Prophet's Daughter
September 21
Birth of Imam Ali
October
5
Mab’as
October
22
Birth of 12th Imam
November
26
Martyrdom of Imam Ali
December
30
Martyrdom of Imam Ja’far
Definitely to be avoided is the period of Now Ruz
(New Year); little to no work can be done from around 20 March
to 5 April.
It is better if you can avoid traveling to Iran
during the mourning month of Moharram (c 16 March - 13 April
2002) and the fasting month of Ramazan (c 28 October – 25
November 2002).
16. Language
The
national language of Iran is Persian , also known as Farsi ,
an Indo-European language. A few of the more frequently
used phrases are:
Salaam Hullo
Haale Shoma Khoobe? How are you?
Khaste
Nabaashid May you not
be tired (a polite greeting)
Khahesh Mikonam
Please
Befarma-id A
polite phrase , meaning "after you" , "your turn"
Merci Thank
you
Motshakeram
Thank you
Khoda
Hafez Good-bye
Iranians are a very polite people ,
and appreciate formal courtesy (in Persian
"ta'arof").
17. Useful Telephone Numbers
British
Council
2001 222 , 264 905
British
Embassy
670 5011 - 18
British Institute of Persian
Studies
261937
Tehran
Taxis
133
Police
110
Ambulance 115
Telephone Information
Service 118
Flight
Information
6001011 to 17
Iran Tourism
Organization
646 7251-5
18. What to Wear
Most
Iranian women wear a manteau (a long shapeless coat) and
headscarf; some still use the chador. Foreign women visitors should wear a
manteau or loose knee-length jacket and headscarf.
Headscarves can be too colorful and black is recommended
during days of mourning. It is easy and cheap to buy a
manteau (between £8-20) when you get to Tehran. For
first arrival a woman should wear a loose-fitting coat to
knee-level.
For men shorts are unacceptable.
Both sexes should dress more conservatively if
visiting mosques and religious buildings. | 
